Відео

Make the walls 16’ thick use all the window ledges as a bed n heat ur home with a candle 😂

Why are there doubled up studs on the inside side of thw double wall, Isn't the inside wall just holding up the drywall?

Then you lose it all in the windows

Shouldn't there be a Tyvek type of building wrap material attach to the underside of the floor framing and sheathing to stop the wind from entering the fiberglass insulation?

Does no one offset the studs from the outer wall to inner wall anymore? That's how I learned to build double walls so insulation overlaps, rather than have insulation aps wherleaving insulation gaps where studs are.

My understanding was that the rigid foam is a vapor barrier providing that all seams/edges are taped properly. This all seems very redundant. Having done a similar construction on my pole barn shop if I could do it over I would have used more foam board or a few inches of closed cell spray foam and skipped the fiberglass bats.

Moving to a mild climate fixed 99% of my insulation problems

The government should subsidize VIPs to price parity with regular insulation. Every house could have R60 or R120 walls.

We just had a pole barn built in northern Michigan. It has R7.5 foam board insulating all of the bents, then a 2x4 wall built inside of the barn walls, with an inch and a half off-set between them, allowing conventional R19 insulation to be installed. This created R26 walls and made running electrical wires quite easy, as shown in this video.

Regarding the exhaust fan. So it’s reducing the pressure in the crawl. Where don’t think the make up air is coming from? And what is the relative humidity of that make up air? The answer will vary from house to house I realize. Folks, much heavier material is available than 6 mil visqueen. I suggest using as thick a material as u can afford.

Good content. Your vid is perhaps to educate people who have potential to improve their house air and comfort. The vid also shows places for a builder to target as they do new construction. Thx.

Guys...move the foam board to the outside of the 2x6 wall then seal. Then fill the cavity. More bang for your buck when you don't let the air in.

You could have a higher yield if you used sand instead of water, as heat storage

Built my house exterior walls exactly like this 14 years ago. Along with R60 in the ceiling I'm very happy with the cold weather performance. An added bonus is the walls are almost totally soundproof.

Hello, great video! I have to put a tub/shower unit on an exterior corner in a cold climate (6B). From the outside in, I was thinking 2x6 exterior wall studs, cavities filled with Roxul Comfortbatt and then using 5/8" paperless drywall from floor to ceiling (sealed at the edges to the floor and ceiling). Then I want to build a second interior wall with 2x3's, a layer of Membrain and then cement board from floor to ceiling around the tub/shower enclosure (sealed at the edges to the floor and ceiling) Finally I would install the tub/shower within this second, interior wall (walls above the tub are tiled). Would you recommend any changes to this design? Thanks for your help!

Glad to see you mention keeping the vapor retarder above the dewpoint. If you haven’t already, a dedicated video on how to determine that is in order. 😉

If it’s good enough to keep my coffee warm it’s good enough for my house.

A well insulated, tight system is great. Adequately addressing indoor air quality and moisture levels on the inside are essential to completing this system. Recently inspected a very tight building with an HRV that had failed years prior and it was pretty destructive.

I used this exact system on my studio remodel 5 years ago and have been very satisfied with the performance.

Double walls are real gold if you live by a freeway.

But what's the r value of the windows? R4?

Why dont they double up on windows. There is plenty of room to fit another window with the existing windows. You can double the R value in the windows.

Why not just use 2x12s as wall studs/framing lumber? Two applications of 5.75" of closed cell spray foam are sprayed in the bays, with a couple weeks in-between applications to allow curing/off gassing of the foam. This way you end up with an air tight, R-80.5 wall. There is no reason to make building in cold climates more complex than it needs to be.

Let’s just make the wall 8’ thick that’ll solve everything 🙄 KISS!

Better option is exterior rigid foam insulation which solves most of the condensation issues, cheaper & easier to install than double wall framing. I live in the south east US, & my walls are about R-33 with 2x6 24 oc framing & exterior foam insulation. I don't like to use vapor retarders as I believe it does not really work & leads to moisture build up. Joe Lstiburek (Building Science Corp) has several video presentations on the topic with double wall construction as well as moisture build up with vapor retarders. I recommend watching his "perfect Wall" presentations. Vapor barriers don't really work well as they get full of holes for utilties (plumbing, electrical, HVAC) as well as drywall screws. The best option for air sealing is the ZIP system that is fully taped & nail holes caulked on the exterior side, and caulking on the inside of the stud bays as well as sealing any wall pentrations with caulk, or other sealing products. Even with the 2/4 wall for utilities, you can bet a contractor is going to rip a hole in the vapor barrier whiling doing his installation work.

Could not see how the 2x4s are attached to the 2x6s ? Or maybe they are not, as to not penetrate vapour barrier? Love the system has it been around enough for a time/function test?

Very interesting!

Would this work in Zone 5 or 6?

Wall insulation and a air tight seal is still the best in my book and the wiring is way easier.

Nice wall system! What happens to the foam/vapour barrier at the top and bottom plates, or where the walls meet a roof or floor?

Thanks for your video.

That's some good satire

Wallie noooo 😂

I was surprised to see it not get plumbed before you put the top ply on. Will this building get plumbed after?

I'm curious about the two methods, the insulated steel tank, and the insulated box under your house. Would it not be feasible to make a large version of the insulated box rather than the tank? How about this, a 20' x 10' x 10' hole in the ground, line it with pond-liner material to keep water out, then line it with hard foam insulation, then rebar and concrete like a swimming pool? I have not thought through how to cover it but some kind of ridge frame, then foam, then a sheet of pond liner. Would all that be more expensive than the tank?

Would it work to use adjustable jacks to lift and level a concrete slab foundation

This is how the blocks were MADE for the pyramids. They weren't hauled or moved or quarried. They were made with geopolymers and poured where they exactly are

Chalk line for furring? Is this 1970? Laser levels are cheap 😂

thats not 10.000 pounds.... 2000 max.

Have you read Dr. Joe Lstiburek's article with the Building Science Corporation' on spray foam called "Snap, Crackle and Pop Goes the Spray Foam"? You can find it on Google by looking for Insight BSI-143.

Grreat explanation. Always have more airtightness on the warm side than the cold side!

Another great video, I hope you keep sharing. Thankyou 😊

EXCELLENT concise video explaining the danger of having the wrong type and size of insulation combined with the wrong types of vapor barriers! You could accidentally turn your house into a giant dehumidifier, with a dangerous dew point causing lots of condensation!!!

Please read the video description for further information. Thank you. -Ilya

Wow! That's helpful for me! Thanks for sharing this idea!

Does the piece of rigid insulation go all the way to the exterior sheathing or is there loose fill insulation behind it?

By adding rigid insulation to the interior do you run the risk of decreasing the walls drying potential?

Great idea that is easy to do and makes sense, is it ok to build single story structures on 24 inch walls vs 16”? Would that make it plenty strong yet less studs for thermal problems?

GREAT demonstration! Do you have recommendations for shallow electrical boxes designed to fit in the narrow furred-in service cavity?

how about putting it directly in the house